Getting engaged in rural Oman

English Teacher in Oman

Best of Dhank

2008-2009

Background

I often, as a reprieve from the boredom in Ibri, just drove around the countryside around Ibri exploring rural Oman, taking pictures. 

Near Ibri town, is Dhank, which became a source of many of my photographs, as it has beautiful natural scenery of green farmland, plantations, and wadis with beautiful mountains as a backdrop. 

It became the scene also of my marriage proposal to my fiance at that time. She came to visit me in October 2008, and I decided to pop the question on the 14th of November on a hilltop on the outskirts of Dhank town. I drove around the countryside looking for a suitable spot and then spotted a road leading up to a hill. It had a beautiful view of Dhank and the countryside down below. We threw open a blanket, had a picnic and then popped the question.

Wadi scenery near Dhank

About Oman

Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.

From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. 

Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East, and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.

Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbors’ solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).

On top of the hill, having a picnic. It is here that I asked my then fiance to marry me - 14 November 2008

Countryside near Dhank

Nature scenery near Dhank (About 20 km from Ibri on the Al Ain Road)

Goats - rural area near Dhank

Rural area near Dhank

Rural area near Dhank

Occupied ruins - rural area near Dhank

Herdsman - in a wadi, near Dhank

Omani farm near Dhank

Wadi scenery near Dhank

Dhank street scenery at sunset

Occupied ruins - rural area near Dhank

Indian and Pakistani laborers usually take up residence in these ruins. They earn between 60- 90 Omani Riyal per month, half of which they send back home to their families. Deplorable conditions as they are exploited by their Muslim 'brothers' in the Gulf. 

One thing they however never compromise on, satellite TV.

Occupied ruins - rural area near Dhank

Dhank

The main street leading into Dhank

Dhank shop front

Dhank restaurant

Dhank bank

Dhank street scenery

Omani villa gate - Dhank

Decorated roundabout - Dhank

Dhank shop front

Long distance bus stop - outside Dhank

Getting engaged on a hill in Dhank

Getting engaged

View of Dhank area from a hill

Ansu

Dhank scenery

Dhank at sunset

To view my experiences living in Ibri, click here!

Afternoon with Ali in rural Oman

English Teacher in Oman

Mesharab, near Dhank

7 November 2008

Background

Ansu and I were exploring rural Oman in the Ibri area with our rented car. We went off the beaten track on dirt roads where tourists don't explore. We arrived at a small village and I took many pics. Our presence drew some attention, as the locals probably were not really used to foreigners being there. We were approached by an Omani man, who introduced himself as Ali, who volunteered to be my guide showing me around. 

At first, I was a bit hesitant, as South Africans, in general, have a trust issue, but I followed suit. He showed me a date plantation near the village and some ruins, and then he invited us to his home where he entertained us with his whole family present. They could not really speak English, and my Arabic is very basic. 

They put out a whole spread of Omani dates and fruits in their courtyard on a picnic mat, where we sat, ate and drank tea. Omani's are extremely hospitable people and we had other similar experiences during our stay in Oman.

Ali in a date plantation, Mesharab, near Dhank. My wife and I explored the area.
He came to us and asked us if he could show us around
and then invited us for lunch at his home

About Oman

Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.

From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. 

Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East, and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.

Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbors’ solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).

A camel - Mesharab

Mesharab home

Mesharab home

window

window

Entrance gate to a home

Some ruins where Pakistani's and Indian laborers actually live...see the satellite dishes

Mesharab street

At Ali's home - Mesharab

At Ali's home - Mesharab

To view my experience working and living in Oman, click here!

Off-the-beaten track - Life in Khartoum

English Teacher in Sudan

Socializing

April to August 2008

Background

During 2008 I had the opportunity to teach English in Khartoum, Sudan. It is not exactly a popular tourist destination like Greece. The civil war between the North and South still existed. A huge UN presence in Khartoum to monitor issues in Darfur made it a volatile situation. The president was at that time indicted by the World Court for crimes against humanity and the rebels attacked Khartoum at one point. 

One could not walk around like a tourist taking pictures of everything. There was a certain danger to everyday life. Yet I felt more secure and safe than in South Africa. You knew the boundaries and the do's and don’ts, whereas in SA the enemy is within. The locals in Khartoum are very hospitable and caring. They went out of their way to show kindness and provide help.

Again like in most African cities the divide between rich and poor is evident. Some had everything, some had nothing. Yet people showed no jealousy or envy, but rather contentment. 

Due to the fact that much Non-profit Aid and relief organizations are involved with projects in Sudan, a huge foreign expat community exists. The UN, UNHCR, WFP, WHIO, UNICEF to name but a few employ many workers different nationalities. Parties, get-togethers, and clubs like in the days of colonialism exist to entertain and strengthen the camaraderie between expats in a faraway dangerous place. 

I attended some of these, but my impression was that these events only served to provide opportunities to get drunk legally.

Exploring Bahri - posing with locals

As alcohol is forbidden in Islamic countries, bars and pubs exist to a limited extent, and then exclusively served expats. NGO expats got their drinks flown in on sanctioned UN planes to pass customs unnoticed. Eritreans supplied the locals need for booze. 

I was approached on a street by an Eritrean offering me a bottle of whiskey for USD 70. The illegal market in pornography and alcohol provide a constant supply for the great demand. It is said that there are more alcoholics in Islamic countries than anywhere else. 

More affluent Arab men are huge consumers of sex tourism in Thailand and China. There are 'sex' hotels in Dubai specifically to cater to this need. In Afrikaans, we have a saying "bo blink, onder stink", which means that on the outside people are all pious and holy, yet on the inside they are rotten........ 'White-washed tombs'. 

Double standards of foreign expat workers who came to 'help' but in reality fled away from their countries to pursue illegal activities 'legally', also existed. The locals hated the UN and all its sister organizations.

Petroleum companies from China also invaded Sudan to exploit this valuable commodity. One of my functions was to improve these employees' English. As a minority group living in compounds, they were quite eager for friendship. As I worked in China for 3 years, I could speak reasonable Chinese, and they took me in and made me part of some extracurricular activities. 

In the poor areas, you had street food and sidewalk tea, while in more affluent areas you had 'Beverley Hills' style coffee shops and restaurants which catered for the upper crust expats and locals. I loved the spontaneity and friendliness of the poorer classes, which made you feel welcome and accepted. The upper crust entertainment venues filled with expat snobs made you feel like the cat dragged you in.

Not all expats were there for the wrong reasons, I went to church there and met Christians who were trying to erase the bad image of expats within the community. I had friends within all these different groups of people and it gave me great insight into the make-up of Khartoum, truly a city of contrast and variety.

Exploring Tuti island - Khartoum

About Sudan

Sudan (Arabic: Al-Sudan) is the third largest country in Africa and sixteenth largest in the world, bordering Egypt, Eritrea, Central African Republic, Chad, Ethiopia, Libya, and South Sudan.  

Sudan is afflicted by civil wars which have been raging, on and off, for more than 40 years. 

When the colonial map-makers divided up Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians), who share much of their history and culture with Egyptians and Arabs, and the largely Christian and Animist Nilotic and Bantu people of the south, who have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their northern neighbours (Wikitravel).

As I was walking around my neighborhood, Buri, this group of teenagers passed me in their horse cart. 
They invited me for a ride and I did a photo shoot. Content with so little was my impression of them.
On the other hand, you had many expats with lots complaining all the time

About Khartoum

Khartoum (Arabic: Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue Nile and White Nile Rivers merge. 

The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms (Wikipedia). 

The Three Towns—Khartoum, Omdurman, and Khartoum North—together comprise the political, commercial, and administrative centre for Sudan. 

Located where the Blue Nile and White Nile join to flow north toward Egypt, the capital city is the largest urban complex in the country. 

Khartoum, the political capital, means "elephant trunk" in Arabic (encyclopedia.com).

Al Salaam Rotana hotel in Khartoum.
My Chinese students had a membership of the club and invited me a couple of times along

Relaxing next to the pool

One of my Chinese students relaxing next to the pool

William Guo, one of my students - Rotana hotel

An English doctor I met and befriended

'High tea' - Sudan style

Sandra, a colleague, and friend relaxing at home

Buying fruit juice - Khartoum-North souq with Justine

My guide - Sandra, organizing a Raksha for us

At a Syrian restaurant with colleagues, friends, and students

Baklava treat at a Syrian restaurant

The Syrian restaurant menu

The Shwarma's at the Syrian restaurant was the best in Khartoum

A Sudanese man who gave me a lift once and took me to his home for tea

The Beatles coffee shop - Ate here a couple of times

With Sudanese teens during a summer camp we held

To view my workplace and home life in Khartoum, click here!

To view Khartoum streets, click here!

To view Nile Bridges in Khartoum, click here!

To view Tuti island, click here!

To view Khartoum souqs, click here!

To view Khartoum vehicles, street scenery, and road signs, click here!