Showing posts with label Riyadh. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Riyadh. Show all posts

Friday, 26 May 2017

Teaching ESL in Al Quwayiyah, KSA

A Review of our Saudi experience 

Information sheet for teachers who want to live and work in Al Quwayiyah

Saudi Arabia 2015


Employees, past and current, serves as the best references, publicity (positive or negative) or advertisement for a company that has employed them or that currently employs them. It is that time of the year again when recruitment is taking place for the August/September start of the Academic year. I have posted a video of Al Quwayiyah on YouTube, which is basically a PPT slideshow with pics, comments, and music. Many potential employees have asked me to elaborate on the video as this was the only resource they could find. After the third inquiry, I have decided to basically paraphrase my responses to them in this blog about our experience in Al Quwayiyah, KSA.

Al Quwayiyah souq

Background


In 2015 we were part of the initial pioneering team to teach at a vocational college in Al Quwayiyah, Saudi Arabia. The town is about two hours’ drive from Riyadh city, in the moon landscape desert area of Riyadh province, a town that has seen foreigners for the first time to settle in their dusty outback Bedouin abode. My wife and I arrived as part of the second wave of teachers after 4 months since the inception of the project. We only stayed for 6 months. Like they say in the introduction of the TV show Law and Order: “These are their stories”. In fact, it’s just a brief review of what we experienced two years ago. I cannot speak for the present situation. Some of the issues may have been addressed in the meantime. I hope this can be a resource for potential teachers who would like to teach there.

I would like to list all the responses I gave to specific questions asked of me. I think from the answer the question would be obvious so I won’t repeat the questions:

At the front gate of the Al Quwayiyah male college campus during a sandstorm

ESG Saudi Arabia (Interserve) & the working environment


  • During our stay ESG ran the project, later on, however, Interserve acquired ESG and it brought about many changes, some positive.
  • Upon our arrival at 11 pm at night, we were not shown to our chalet, as was promised and negotiated during our interview, but were put up in a room, with no en-suite bathroom. It was a shared bathroom that residents (colleagues) in the house had to share. We had to be up at 6 the next morning to start our new jobs. No induction, no time to adjust, we just had to fall into things immediately. Our case was not an isolated one. Another couple arrived and had to sleep on couches in the living room of one of the villas. There was no-one to welcome them or show them to their accommodation. They had to start their first day of work a couple of hours later. 
  • We left more than a year ago, and according to my knowledge has the number of teachers dwindled due to the decreasing amount of students at both colleges in Al Quwayiyah. Esg Saudi Arabia has other colleges in Damam and elsewhere. 
  • The turnover rate for teachers was quite high....about 80% and very few last more than a year. The ESG philosophy is not Saudi culture friendly. ESG emphasizes attendance due to an agreement with the Saudi government that they only receive grants for students with an 80% attendance record. This puts a lot of pressure on teachers to try and keep students in class at all costs even ‘tweaking’ attendance registers. The female college had fewer issues with regards to attendance than the male college. Females see education as a growth opportunity, so they are super motivated as opposed to the males who are generally unmotivated. 
  • The Saudi culture is focused on friendship and hospitality and the way of reaching them is to respond to it by prioritizing relationship building first. There is a constant clash between westernized esg goals and student needs, within the Saudi cultural setting. 
  • Enrolment dwindled because the Westernized system was not met with enthusiasm by the Saudi students. The Bedouin culture is relaxed, it’s about relationships more than anything else. TIS...This is Saudi. You can’t or won’t change it. Adapt or leave. Interserve and ESG wanted to impose the British system of education, of goals and results and attendance. Students in Saudi cannot be swayed. If they want to pray at 12 noon, they will go irrespective whether they have a lesson or not. Therefore, the teacher is in a no-win situation, being pressured into getting students to attend, and getting blamed if they are not.
  • The students are wonderful. Saudi's are very hospitable and friendly. Win them over by respecting their culture and they will do anything for you.
  • I cannot say the same for most of the expat teachers. We experienced a lot of backstabbing and aggressive and self-serving behaviour from some of these expats. Remote sites that pay much attract weird and selfish types. 
  • When we were there we were some of the first teachers, and the project was still finding its feet. Needless to say that it was a hardship posting. I have worked in countries like Somalia and Sudan, but this was the most difficult, due to a very unfriendly and competitive collegial environment. Instead of standing together and be friends in such a tough environment, there was a lot of backstabbing, hostility, and competitiveness, the worst I have ever experienced.
  • We had to go through a lot of birth pains with and because of the company. The pay is good and we received our salaries on time, and were never short-changed.
  • There was a lot of frustration with visas and distrust for HR. I hear that it has improved. We were employed on Business visas whilst they were attempting to get us Iqamas. They never succeeded. That is a whole different story. They made visa runs to Bahrain with our passports every month just to get things going. Lots of underhand dealings to keep us legal. It has probably become more organized and you won’t have to be exposed to that.
  • We used 'English first' textbooks, but had to supplement a lot with online resources. We were observed almost every month by either the principal or British inspectors and had to follow the strict lesson plan structure prescribed.
  • Ultimately it was not the culture that pushed us out, but an organizational culture. If you think you can handle it, I guess you should. If not, stay away.

Central Alquwayiyah

Saudi culture/religion & Al Quwayiyah

  • Al Quwayiyah is very remote and the Al Quwayiyah College staff the only expats in town.
  • The living arrangements are quite challenging. There are 3 compounds, the main compound consists of a big villa, mainly occupied by single males and chalets for single female teachers....on the same grounds, but separated by a gate. Every single male teacher had his own bedroom, but very few had en suite bathrooms. They usually had to share these. The main villa housed a couple of married couples. All the residents had to share a couple of communal kitchens, which created many blowouts and conflict situations. They built chalets for the single females on the same property. Whilst we were waiting for our villa to be built, we stayed in one of these. It was basically a one bedroom apartment with a very small living space outside that of the bedroom itself.
  • The second compound a villa with only single females and the third compound for the married couples. The compound for the married couples consists of 8 large apartments with their own private gardens. 
  • Saudi women are not allowed to go out on their own. They must either be chaperoned by other females in a group setting or by their husband. 
  • Western women don't have that restriction, BUT it is highly advisable that a woman does move in a group or with her husband. Just safer for everyone. 
  • Respect for the Arab/Saudi/Muslim culture is essential. Western women will have to wear an Abaya when you go out, whether in Al Quwayiyah or anywhere else in Saudi. Riyadh has religious police that will do something about it if you don't. The headscarf and hijab are not compulsory for western women, but it is good to cover as much of your hair. Blonde hair attracts attention.
  • You are to buy basic amenities and groceries in Al Quwayiyah, but Riyadh two hours away is the place if you want malls, clothing, imported western goods, a decent meal, etc. Riyadh has it all and ESG has a weekly bus to Riyadh for shopping. 
  • There won’t be much for small children in Al Quwayiya. They have corniche type parks where families go and walk and family restaurants where families can go. All the married expat teaching couples in Al Quwayiyah had no children with them. 
  • As a Christian I found it extremely challenging, not so much the culture and religion, but as stated earlier from colleagues. Remember that you live with these people on the same compound, you work with them and share even the same bus every day. If there are issues they are amplified.
  • The same bus used for Al Q excursions and trips is used for the Riyadh shopping expeditions. In my time, due to internal politics, and mostly a self-centered and self-absorbed bunch, an atmosphere existed on the bus. Eventually, we just got our own taxi driver to drive us to Riyadh and back. It was worth the 600 SAR expense for peace of mind.
  • Al Khobar is the better option, it's near Dammam and the Bahrain border, good for sanity breaks.

Main ESG teacher compound in Al Quwayiyah


To view a photo exposè of our stay in Al Quwayiyah


Monday, 22 June 2015

Riyadh - the 'conservative' capital in the Gulf

English Teacher in Saudi Arabia 

January to June 2015


Background


Our financial situation in South Africa forced us to a certain extent to accept teaching positions in Saudi Arabia. We had to live on a single income in South Africa and was barely making ends meet. We were in debt and wanted to get out of it. Previous colleagues of ours who worked with us in Oman told us of a new Educational project in Saudi Arabia, with which they got involved and told us that they were looking for more teachers. I was lecturing law in South Africa, but Pearson was paying so little that we could not even afford to rent an apartment on our own, and still lived with my parents in law. 

Saudi was a good opportunity to pay off all our debts and maybe even buy property when we return after the completion of the two-year contract we signed. Our plan to stay for 2 years did not work out as we were faced with difficulties beyond our control. Our working and living arrangements in Al Quwayiyah was extremely challenging, and we lasted only 6 months. We taught ESL at vocational colleges in Al Quwayiyah. Education in Saudi is not co-ed, so I taught at the male college, and my wife at the female college on separate campuses about 2 km apart. We were not the only ones, the turn-over rate for teachers was 80%. 

To read more about our experience in Al Quwayiyah from a professional standpoint please click here.

To say that Saudi Arabia is an extreme culture to work and live in is probably the understatement of the year, especially as a Christian. We faced opposition not so much from the Saudi culture or people, but more so from our colleagues, with whom we had to live and work with 24/7. The culture of the company that employed us did not make things easier. At least we managed to pay off all our debts upon our return and have a honeymoon, we never really had, in Mauritius. 

I have worked in challenging places like Sudan and Somalia before, but this was by far my biggest challenge. There are however good experiences and memories that we can take away with us. To have worked in a rural dusty Bedouin town gave us a unique and privileged view of the Saudi way of life, culture, and heart. We were overwhelmed by the love and acceptance from the Saudi people with their extremely hospitable and giving hearts. In that respect, we walk away with fond memories.

The photo expose will tell the story of our experience in Saudi. One cannot get a tourist visa for Saudi, so people who gain access are those who work in Saudi. There are many expats in Riyadh and other bigger cities, but very few get to set foot where we got to, so the photos reveal 'uncharted' territory. 

Riyadh

About Saudi Arabia


Saudi Arabia, officially known as the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA), is an Arab sovereign state in Western Asia constituting the bulk of the Arabian Peninsula. With a land area of approximately 2,150,000 km2, Saudi Arabia is geographically the fifth-largest state in Asia and second-largest state in the Arab world after Algeria. Saudi Arabia is bordered by Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south. It is the only nation with both a Red Sea coast and a Persian Gulf coast. Most of its terrain consists of arid desert and mountains.

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was founded in 1932 by Ibn Saud. He united the four regions into a single state through a series of conquests beginning in 1902 with the capture of Riyadh, the ancestral home of his family, the House of Saud. 

Saudi Arabia has since been an absolute monarchy, effectively a hereditary dictatorship governed along Islamic lines. The ultra-conservative Wahhabi religious movement within Sunni Islam has been called "the predominant feature of Saudi culture", with its global spread largely financed by the oil and gas trade (Wikipedia).

View of village from Motel

About Riyadh


Riyadh is the capital and most populous city of Saudi Arabia. It is also the capital of Riyadh Province and belongs to the historical regions of Najd and Al-Yamama. It is situated in the center of the Arabian Peninsula on a large plateau and home to more than six million people.

The city is divided into 15 municipal districts, managed by the Municipality of Riyadh headed by the mayor of Riyadh, and the Development Authority of Riyadh which is chaired by the governor of the Province, Faisal bin Bandar Al Saud. Riyadh has been designated a global city.

Trips to Riyadh


Riyadh is considered the most straight-laced of the Kingdom's big three cities. With most forms of entertainment banned, few sights of interest and a brutal climate, Riyadh is mostly a business destination. Although everyone adheres to the dress code thawb for men and abaya for women, you might come across many Saudis in Westernized clothing. English is spoken by most Saudis (most in Riyadh speak it well) as well as most foreigners.

The road outside our villa compound that marks the start of our journey to Riyadh

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

On the ESG bus to Riyadh for a weekend away

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway scenery

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Near Riyadh

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Rocky outcrop

Main road entering Riyadh from Al Quwayiyah

Riyadh

Staying at Seder Village Motel


Once a month we had a company sponsored weekend at the Seder Village Motel, which I refer to as a sanity break from the challenges in Al Quwayiyah. The stay included a buffet brunch every day.

Seder Village Motel is located in Seder Village, a western style compound in Riyadh. The village has three outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, basketball courts, and a gym. It also has a small shopping center that one can buy the basics and of course a lovely big dining hall for buffets and a ’la carte. 

The Motel consists of single rooms and 2 bedroom suites, each with a fully equipped kitchen and direct access to the motel's swimming pool that overlooks the lounge. The premises are secured by the National Guard and the Seder Village security team. 

Entrance to motel

View of village from Motel - The start of a relaxing weekend

Motel

Seder village walk

Seder village recreation office

A Western house - Seder Village

There is also a salon .... with a foot spa

Seder village dining room

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Seder village scenery on a rainy day - main swimming pool, taken from the Dining room

Seder village scenery on a rainy day

Main swimming pool


Riyadh malls


Mall entrance

Cell phone booth - a mall in Riyadh

Mall interior - Riyadh

Applebee's dish - Riyadh

Milkshakes - Riyadh

Ansu at Shakeaway - Riyadh

High tea at the Ritz Carlton hotel



Ritz Carlton access road and hotel - Riyadh

Ansu at the Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel  - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel  - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel fountains - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel lobby ceiling - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel courtyard where we had high tea - Riyadh

Our waiter

High tea at the Ritz Carlton Hotel, Riyadh

In the hotel lobby

Our high tea snacks and treats

Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh

Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh

Ansu in front of the Ritz Carlton hotel entrance - Riyadh


To view my experiences living in rural Al Quwayiyah, click here!