Go with Henry: Riyadh - the 'conservative' capital in the Gulf

Monday 22 June 2015

Riyadh - the 'conservative' capital in the Gulf

English Teacher in Saudi Arabia

January to June 2015

Background

Our financial situation in South Africa forced us to a certain extent to accept teaching positions in Saudi Arabia. We had to live on a single income in South Africa and was barely making ends meet. We were in debt and wanted to get out of it. Previous colleagues of ours who worked with us in Oman told us of a new Educational project in Saudi Arabia, with which they got involved and told us that they were looking for more teachers. I was lecturing law in South Africa, but Pearson was paying so little that we could not even afford to rent an apartment on our own, and still lived with my parents in law.

Saudi was a good opportunity to pay off all our debts and maybe even buy property when we return after the completion of the two-year contract we signed. Our plan to stay for 2 years did not work out as we were faced with difficulties beyond our control. Our working and living arrangements in Al Quwayiyah was extremely challenging, and we lasted only 6 months. We taught ESL at vocational colleges in Al Quwayiyah. Education in Saudi is not co-ed, so I taught at the male college, and my wife at the female college on separate campuses about 2 km apart. We were not the only ones, the turn-over rate for teachers was 80%.

To read more about our experience in Al Quwayiyah from a professional standpoint please click here.

To say that Saudi Arabia is an extreme culture to work and live in is probably the understatement of the year, especially as a Christian. We faced opposition not so much from the Saudi culture or people, but more so from our colleagues, with whom we had to live and work with 24/7. The culture of the company that employed us did not make things easier. At least we managed to pay off all our debts upon our return and have a honeymoon, we never really had, in Mauritius.

I have worked in challenging places like Sudan and Somalia before, but this was by far my biggest challenge. There are however good experiences and memories that we can take away with us. To have worked in a rural dusty Bedouin town gave us a unique and privileged view of the Saudi way of life, culture, and heart. We were overwhelmed by the love and acceptance from the Saudi people with their extremely hospitable and giving hearts. In that respect, we walk away with fond memories.

The photo expose will tell the story of our experience in Saudi. One cannot get a tourist visa for Saudi, so people who gain access are those who work in Saudi. There are many expats in Riyadh and other bigger cities, but very few get to set foot where we got to, so the photos reveal 'uncharted' territory.

Riyadh

About Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia, officially known as the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA), is an Arab sovereign state in Western Asia constituting the bulk of the Arabian Peninsula. With a land area of approximately 2,150,000 km2, Saudi Arabia is geographically the fifth-largest state in Asia and second-largest state in the Arab world after Algeria. Saudi Arabia is bordered by Jordan and Iraq to the north, Kuwait to the northeast, Qatar, Bahrain and the United Arab Emirates to the east, Oman to the southeast and Yemen to the south. It is the only nation with both a Red Sea coast and a Persian Gulf coast. Most of its terrain consists of arid desert and mountains.

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was founded in 1932 by Ibn Saud. He united the four regions into a single state through a series of conquests beginning in 1902 with the capture of Riyadh, the ancestral home of his family, the House of Saud.

Saudi Arabia has since been an absolute monarchy, effectively a hereditary dictatorship governed along Islamic lines. The ultra-conservative Wahhabi religious movement within Sunni Islam has been called "the predominant feature of Saudi culture", with its global spread largely financed by the oil and gas trade (Wikipedia).

View of village from Motel

About Riyadh

Riyadh is the capital and most populous city of Saudi Arabia. It is also the capital of Riyadh Province and belongs to the historical regions of Najd and Al-Yamama. It is situated in the center of the Arabian Peninsula on a large plateau and home to more than six million people.

The city is divided into 15 municipal districts, managed by the Municipality of Riyadh headed by the mayor of Riyadh, and the Development Authority of Riyadh which is chaired by the governor of the Province, Faisal bin Bandar Al Saud. Riyadh has been designated a global city.

Trips to Riyadh

Riyadh is considered the most straight-laced of the Kingdom's big three cities. With most forms of entertainment banned, few sights of interest and a brutal climate, Riyadh is mostly a business destination. Although everyone adheres to the dress code thawb for men and abaya for women, you might come across many Saudis in Westernized clothing. English is spoken by most Saudis (most in Riyadh speak it well) as well as most foreigners.

The road outside our villa compound that marks the start of our journey to Riyadh

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

On the ESG bus to Riyadh for a weekend away

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway scenery

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Near Riyadh

Al Quwayiyah to Riyadh highway - Rocky outcrop

Main road entering Riyadh from Al Quwayiyah

Riyadh

Staying at Seder Village Motel

Once a month we had a company sponsored weekend at the Seder Village Motel, which I refer to as a sanity break from the challenges in Al Quwayiyah. The stay included a buffet brunch every day.

Seder Village Motel is located in Seder Village, a western style compound in Riyadh. The village has three outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, basketball courts, and a gym. It also has a small shopping center that one can buy the basics and of course a lovely big dining hall for buffets and a ’la carte.

The Motel consists of single rooms and 2 bedroom suites, each with a fully equipped kitchen and direct access to the motel's swimming pool that overlooks the lounge. The premises are secured by the National Guard and the Seder Village security team.