English Teacher in Oman
Attending a camel race near Ibri
Sultanate of Oman
2 April 2009
Background
One of my Ibri College female students, Mariam, invited me for a camel race at their farm about 30 km from Ibri. I thought it would be just some informal event, but it was a community spectacle with VIP's, trophies, pomp, and ceremony. Tourists are not invited to these races, you have to know a local and be invited.
We arrived in the morning and was shown into this huge hall/reception room with chairs decorated in gold lining opposite ends. Waiters brought in snacks on trolleys. I felt like a sheik. Royalty and state leaders usually get treated like this. It was a day to step into their shoes. It was not a clear sunny day, it seemed overcast, but in reality, it was dust in the air.
Big sandstorms raged throughout the Gulf and the dust takes a while to settle. At the race, I wondered around in total freedom snapping away pics. I encountered traditional male dancing, drank camel milk and tried to get some good action shots of the races. I sneaked a peek into Omani culture when there are no tourists present, a laid back, friendly, hospitable culture. Men and children I could see, but women not surprisingly absent.
A divided gender culture exists. Women, in general, don't enjoy the same rights and privileges as men do. After lunch, we were shown around by one of Mariam's brothers. The farm is well known for horse and camel breeding. A memorable day for sure.
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| At a camel race |
About Oman
Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.
From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean.
Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East, and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.
Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbors’ solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).
About Ibri
Ibri is both a city and Province in the region Az Zahirah, in northwest Oman. The Wilayat of Ibri is distinguished by its archaeological landmarks including forts, castles, and towers. In 1979 the largest metal hoard in the ancient Near East came to light in ʿIbri-Selme. Also, there are the remains of the town of Bat, which is the second archaeological site to be classified by UNESCO on the list of world heritage and culture sites, after the Bahla Fort in the A’Dakhliya district.
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| Two of the camel riders |
Camels have longed played an important role in many aspects of desert life. They’re used as transportation, food, the focus of festivals, and—in the case of the centuries-old practice of camel racing—entertainment.
The camels, one-humped dromedaries, used in these races can reach speeds of up to 40 miles per hour along designated tracks. They’re expensive to own, and no betting is allowed during the races, so the events are often watched only by people who have skin in the game, including sheikhs, handlers, and owners. While some fans watch races on TV, others drive alongside the animals, controlling robot jockeys and urging their camels to go faster.
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Race camels being prepped for races
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| The arrival hall of the farm we went to where the race was held |
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| The arrival hall of the farm we went to where the race was held |
Race scenery
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| Why the long face? |
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| Front runner |
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| Spectators |
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| Horses were raced as well |
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| Curious kids |
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| In action |
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| Omani boy in traditional Omani wear. The dress is called a dishdasha |
Cultural experience
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| Camel milk is poured into small cups and offered to guests |
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| Traditional Omani male dancing |
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| Traditional Omani male dancing |
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| The VIP's and trophies |
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| The kids really enjoyed all the festivities |
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| Mariam's brother |
Mariam's brother, whose father owns the farm where the camel race was held. He is wearing a ceremonial Omani dagger called a 'Khanjar'.
One of her other brothers acted as our guide, later on, to show us all the different farming activities being practiced including camels, horses, and dates.
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Camel racer trotting back to the
starting point after completion of a race |
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| Racers walking their camels back to the start after a race |
Our guided tour of the farm
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| Camel farm |
Camel farm scenery. The mouthpiece keeps the camel from biting. Not sure what the dress is for....cant be to keep the camels warm since it can get up to 55 Degrees Celsius....night temperatures in summer only 'plunge' to 39 Degrees.
When they allow camels to roam around outside their pens, they bind the hind legs together so they can't move around too quickly or too far away.
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| Camel farm scenery |
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| Camel farm scenery |
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| Don't give me lip...... |
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| Camel farm scenery |
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| Date plantation. A Falaj is used as irrigation |
To view my experiences living in rural Oman, click here!
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