The remote mountain pools of Wadi Dhum

English Teacher in Oman

September 2008

After nearly 6 months working in Sudan, I decided on a change of scenery. I got a teaching post at the Ibri College of Applied Sciences in Oman through the Council for British teachers. Shortly after our arrival, the 6 of us who were allocated to Ibri, were invited by Baxter, a seasoned teacher, and traveler to a Wadi deep in the mountains with clear mountain pools. 

Oman is a Gulf country, known for temperatures between 40 and 55 degrees Celsius, and as Ibri had no swimming pool, we grabbed the opportunity for exploration, but mostly to cool down. Baxter had a jeep, so we took the drive to the starting point from which we had to hike probably a good 3 km up to the pools over rocky and slippery terrain in extremely hot temperatures. The effort was worth our while as we arrived at a cold clear pool for swimming and relaxation.

Wadi Dhum is wadi (dry river bed) located in the Al Hahirah region of Oman. 

En route to Wadi Dhum pools

Hiking to the mountain pools

En route to wadi Dhum pools - Baxter, Steve, Camilla & Fran

About Oman

Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. The coast is formed by the Arabian Sea on the southeast and the Gulf of Oman on the northeast. The Madha and Musandam exclaves are surrounded by the UAE on their land borders, with the Strait of Hormuz (which it shares with Iran) and the Gulf of Oman forming Musandam's coastal boundaries.

From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East, and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.

Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbors' solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).

Fransisca, A fellow South African friend and colleague

Scenery en route to the mountain pools -  Wadi Dhum

En route to wadi Dhum pools - Baxter, Steve, Camilla & Fran

Scenery en route to the mountain pools -  Wadi Dhum. 

This irrigation canal is called a falaj

Scenery en route to the mountain pools -  Wadi Dhum

Relaxing at the mountain pools

Baxter and Camilla enjoying the pool

Steve and I Swimming in the mountain pools -  Wadi Dhum

The wadi where Baxter parked the jeep

Mountain scenery nearby

To view my experiences living in Ibri, click here!

Khartoum Souqs (markets)

Teaching English in Sudan

During 2008, I spent nearly 6 months in Khartoum, Sudan, as an EFL teacher. Sudan is not your typical tourist destination. Most of the expat community either work for NGO's or for oil companies and are not there for pleasure. There are rarely tourists who visit Sudan, due to safety considerations. It is not a place where one can freely walk and happily snap away pictures. I found visiting souqs to be the exception to the rule. In this photo expose I focus on the souqs or markets that I frequented in Khartoum and Omdurman.

Spices for sale - Omdurman souq

About Sudan

Sudan (Arabic: السودان Al-Sudan) is the third largest country in Africa and sixteenth largest in the world, bordering Egypt, Eritrea, Central African Republic, Chad, Ethiopia, Libya, and South Sudan.  Sudan is afflicted by civil wars which have been raging, on and off, for more than 40 years. When the colonial map-makers divided up Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians), who share much of their history and culture with Egyptians and Arabs, and the largely Christian and Animist Nilotic and Bantu people of the south, who have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their northern neighbours (Wikitravel).

About Khartoum

Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue Nile and White Nile Rivers merge. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman (Wikitravel).

About Omdurman

Omdurman (standard Arabic: أم درمان‎‎ Umm Durmān) is the second largest city in Sudan and Khartoum State, lying on the western banks of the River Nile, opposite the capital, Khartoum. Omdurman has a population of around 3 million and is the national center of commerce. With Khartoum and Khartoum North or Bahri, it forms the cultural and industrial heart of the nation (Wikipedia).

What is a souq?

A souq or souk, also spelled shuk, shooq, soq, esouk, succ, suk, sooq, suq) is a marketplace or commercial quarter in Western Asian and North African cities. The equivalent Persian term is "bazaar". A souq was originally an open-air marketplace. Historically, souqs were held outside cities at locations where incoming caravans stopped and merchants displayed their goods for sale. Souqs were formed whenever a caravan or caravans arrived. Since this might be infrequent, souqs often extended beyond buying and selling goods to include major festivals involving various cultural and social activities. Any souq may serve a social function as being a place for people to meet in, in addition to its commercial function (Wikipedia).

Spices for sale at a local souq in Buri nearby my home

Buri Souq

On one of the main roads in Khartoum, goats are on display alongside the road to be sold

Omdurman Souq

The largest and most famous souq in Sudan

Little boy at his father's shop - Omdurman souq

Omdurman souq scenery - soccer fans on a bus driving by celebrating 

Scooter and corn - Omdurman souq

Omdurman souq

Omdurman souq

Omdurman souq

Khartoum-North souq (Saad Gishra)

This is a covered market place, and it is Bahri’s main shopping market. Prices here can be a little higher than those in souq Omdurman however it is much more easily navigable for tourists.

A friend, Justine buying freshly squeezed fruit juice at a market in North Khartoum

Khartoum North souq

Khartoum North souq - a tailor fixing Justine's handbag

Khartoum North souq - spices galore

More Spices

Khartoum-North souq

Khartoum-North souq

Khartoum-North souq

Khartoum-North souq

Khartoum-North souq

Khartoum-North souq

One can almost find anything possible at the souqs, from clothing and cheap plastic household items to food and jewelry. They are also much cheaper than in regular shops. But one must go there for the sights the sounds and the smells, it is where one can find the heart of the people and the city. It is a fantastic opportunity to engage with locals. It was one of my favorite outings in Sudan. It was safe, cheap, fun, relaxing and one could take photos freely. This is an authentic cultural interaction opportunity you should not miss, whether you stay in Khartoum or whether you are just passing through.

Khartoum vehicles, street scenery and signs

English Teacher in Sudan

April to August 2008

Background

I spent nearly 6 months in Khartoum, Sudan, as an EFL teacher during 2008. Sudan is not your typical tourist destination. Most of the expat community either work for NGO's or for oil companies. There are rarely tourists who visit Sudan, due to safety considerations. This does not detach from the unique experience it offers. It is not a place where one can freely walk and happily snap away pictures. I was arrested twice for what they thought 'spying' activities. 

All the pictures were taken, I had to be very careful in taking, most while in a moving car, others trying to be inconspicuous while walking......no time for setting up a tripod and take still life photo's. they were paranoid in Khartoum and feared that any photo could end up in the hands of rebels to gain strategic access of the city. Taking pics of bridges was thus a no-no. As I am addicted to taking pics, this was very difficult. The police erased one memory card of mine, on one of the occasions I was arrested. They thought I was a BBC journalist looking for news to report on. 

Meanwhile, I was just exploring Khartoum on foot, and I ended up in the government section. Later I got the hang of it and explored most of Khartoum on foot, taking pics while I walked. I made friends with people who worked for NGO's like the UN and it was easier to travel with them, whilst snapping away. In this photo expose I focus on modes of transportation in Khartoum, as well as street scenery, specifically signboards and advertisement boards.

Camel far I visited near my home in Khartoum

About Sudan

Sudan (Arabic: السودان Al-Sudan) is the third largest country in Africa and sixteenth largest in the world, bordering Egypt, Eritrea, Central African Republic, Chad, Ethiopia, Libya, and South Sudan. Sudan is afflicted by civil wars which have been raging, on and off, for more than 40 years. When the colonial map-makers divided up Africa, they included in Sudan the predominantly Muslim people of the north (including Nubians), who share much of their history and culture with Egyptians and Arabs, and the largely Christian and Animist Nilotic and Bantu people of the south, who have more in common with the rest of sub-Saharan Africa than with their northern neighbours (Wikitravel).

About Khartoum

Khartoum (Arabic: الخرطوم Al-Khartum) is the capital of Sudan and is located where the Blue Nile and White Nile Rivers merge. The huge, spread-out city is actually made out of three distinct cities (Khartoum, Khartoum North or Bahri, and Omdurman) which are divided by the Nile and its two arms. The Blue Nile flows between Khartoum and Bahri, the White Nile between Khartoum and Omdurman, and the merged Nile between Bahri and Omdurman. The confluence of the Blue and White Nile, known as Al-Mogran, lies just north of the bridge between Khartoum and Omdurman (Wikitravel).

One of the oldest ways to get around.......Camel farm near where I lived in Buri, Khartoum

Camel farmer

Visiting a Camel farm- Buri, Khartoum

Camel farmer - Buri, khartoum

Khartoum streets and signs

Khartoum street scenery

Khartoum street scenery

Advertisement of the soccer 2010 World cup in South Africa

Khartoum advertisement board

Khartoum shop with branding

Sidewalk bookshop.....this one was closed as it was Friday

Buri Street scenery....near where I lived

Coffee shop sign - Beatles coffee shop in Khartoum

Khartoum street scenery

Khartoum transportation

There are a number of taxis or Amjad that charge SD 10 to most destinations in Khartoum.  These taxis come in the form of 30-year-old yellow Toyota saloons or Daewoo micro-buses, which can be hailed from street corners. The Raksha (TUK-TUK), however, is the cheapest at SD 5, but not necessarily the safest. 

Yellow taxis - They use 1977-1984 Toyota Corollas as taxis. It's like Cuba, scenery frozen in time.

These Toyota Corollas of the late ’70s and early '80s reminded me of Cuba where the cars are stuck in time. Ironically, Khartoum residents drive the latest cars, yet these taxi’s remain, and as dilapidated as they are, over-charge the expats. I took one only once and it cost me 10 SDG. Amjad's, Raksha’s or friends with NGO vehicles, remain the cheaper options.

Yellow taxi - Downtown Khartoum

Khartoum taxi

Khartoum taxi

Toyota Corolla 1979 still going strong

Yellow taxi collage

Rakshas

Raksha or Tuk-Tuk as it is known in Thailand is your cheapest choice of a taxi in Khartoum, but definitely not the safest. Driven by youngsters who pimp up their rides, these Raksha’s disobey all traffic laws, making it an adrenaline rush experience second to none to skydiving. Yet I always had great conversations with the drivers and I always got where I needed to be.

Black Raksha

Khartoum Raksha (Tuk-Tuk)

Khartoum is a mixture of donkey carts, cars, buses, Rakshas and they all use the same roads at the same time. There are no clear rules. hooting is an indication that you are about to execute what you want, and others need to pay attention to. There is probably not a vehicle without several dents....an insurance nightmare. yet I did not see a lot of road rage.

Green Raksha - Downtown Khartoum

Khartoum Raksha

Raksha - Burri Khartoum

Raksha driver & guide - Tuti island (Khartoum)

Inside a scooter on the go

Inside a scooter on the go

Retro scooter parked on Nile Street - Khartoum

Donkey cars galore

Donkey cars in Khartoum, are still a very popular mode of transportation for the less fortunate. 

Who is to suppose to drive me?

Donkey car - Buri 

With some teens on their donkey car

Saturday afternoon fun

Donkey car - Tuti island

Donkey car - Khartoum

Donkey cars & Horse carts

Khartoum roads

Farmer's truck

On a Khartoum bus

Other modes of transportation

Sudanese truck

With a large UN presence, I saw many of these around

Boats - "The beach" - A place where the locals go swimming in the Nile

Jet ski - "The beach" 

Transportation to the beach

Police car

Delivery truck

Khartoum during a Haboob (sand storm) - makes visibility almost zero at times and a traffic nightmare

Goats and Peugeots

The airport is nearly in the centre of Khartoum

Women on a Nile ferry between Tuti island and Khartoum

Nile ferry to Tuti island

Nile ferry at dusk

The school van we often used to get around

The company car

Parked in front of a coffee shop

Taking pics on the go...

Read my other posts regarding my experiences in Sudan. Thanks for reading.