Living on an oilfield base camp

Managing an ELT program

PetroChina Halfaya oilfield 

Base camp living

Iraq 2018

Out of the blue, one lazy Sunday afternoon in June 2018, I was approached by a training company in the UAE, who was looking for English teachers for a training project at the PetroChina, Halfaya oilfield, based in Iraq. At that point, we've been without a permanent source of income, since our return from Saudi in 2015, and I decided to humor the recruiter. I was initially recruited as a teacher, but later on, PetroChina changed the requirement for teaching at the location, that a teacher needed to be able to speak Arabic in addition to English, so I was excluded. The company, Haward Technologies Middle East then decided to make me the program administrator. 

In early September after months of visa applications, I was invited to Ajman in the UAE, to meet with Haward management, to consult with them on how to set up an ELT program, as their expertise was limited to Technical training in the Oil and Gas industry.  In early September I flew to Dubai to meet with Haward. I advised them on how to set the program up, with regards to curriculum, lesson materials, timeframes, etc. I flew back to South Africa, a fortnight later expecting mobilization to Iraq to be conducted speedily. However, with a new Iraqi government being voted in, visas became a nightmare for oil and petroleum companies to procure. The result was that I had to manage the ELT program remotely, via email and conference calling from South Africa for 6 weeks before I could get a visa to fly to Iraq. 

To cut a long story short, on the 20th of October, 2018, I was on a plane headed for Dubai, from where I would first take a connection flight to Basrah in Iraq, and then be flown on the PetroChina chartered Gulfstream jet to Halfaya oilfield's own airfield. I would never set foot out of Halfaya oilfield again for the next 7 weeks. I was actually supposed to rotate every 4 weeks, but due to the same visa issues mentioned earlier, I eventually remained 7 weeks on the base without any breaks. There was a medical doctor on base who have been stuck on base for 17 weeks due to visa issues, so I consider myself fortunate. The reality of living on an oilfield base, and working 7 days a week, with the added security risks, as well as not being able to venture into Iraqi society and get a mental break from the monotony that can only be found on an oilfield base, can cause severe anxiety and strain on even the strongest of men.

Halfaya Base Camp at dusk

Base camp scenery

It was like stepping into 'China Town', with a distinct modern Chinese architectural style right down to the furnishings. I taught in China for 3 years, and it was like stepping back into that part of my life again. The grounds had a more Middle Eastern feel to it, with palm trees and other plant life that reminded me of my teaching experiences in Oman and Saudi Arabia. One may describe it as an Arab-Chinese blend of surroundings and people. Most PetroChina employees were obviously Chinese, who seemed to prefer to keep separate from the rest, a mix of Arabs from a conglomerate of Arab countries who find themselves in the oil and gas industry. 

The Chinese group kept mostly to themselves since I think language barriers prevented them to communicate freely. The fact that there were 2 separate canteens, one for the Chinese and one of the Arabs, reinforced the idea of Apartheid. Base camp gossip furthermore strengthened this idea. Apparently, a directive from management was given to all Chinese employees not to encourage inter-race socialization. They were to keep themselves to themselves. Personally, I found that, whenever I attempted to interact with the Chinese, they reciprocated. The Arab mix conflagrated together in a much more emotional and excitable atmosphere in the Arab canteen where the talking and interaction were much more lively,  as was the spicy food that was on offer in the buffet.

Having worked in both regions for prolonged periods, I could identify elements of both, and it was an interesting social experiment, as to which group I would identify with most. Yes, there were the odd Europeans, American, Brits, and even 3 other South Africans......., and believe it or not, even women, but the major groups were the Chinese and the Arabs. The Arabs, being much more expressive, friendly and loud, whereas the Chinese, as the food in the Chinese canteen, had a much more 'bland' and 'colorful' approach to work and life and the base camp. One might even say, you had the left brain mathematical, devoid of emotion approach of the Chinese, pitched against the right brain emotive and outgoing approach of the Arabs. If you wanted company you would go to the Arab canteen for lively conversation, stories, and laughter, whereas if you wanted a peaceful and quiet escape from the rigors of work, your best option was probably the Chinese canteen, where quiet conversation was overtaken by news events on the big screen TV.

I walked or cycled this stretch frequently to have my 3 meals a day

It was usually foggy in the mornings

Sunny days were actually quite beautiful

Sunset near the OCC gate - Robin and I here cycling back to the accommodation block after a long day at the office. 
We sometimes went for walks on the tartan track before dinner, 
to discuss the daily events and frustrations, and to get some exercise.

The main road adjacent to the living compound

Driving with Mustaffa to the airfield to pick up a new arrival

The logistics warehouse entrance

Posing near the OCC building - after lunch

Base camp facilities

The Base Camp is ultra modern and had very good facilities. The sports facilities, in particular, was Olympic standard, with an indoor pool (Which I never saw, as I was not a PetroChina employee, but a sub-contractor), an indoor gym with Table Tennis tables, badminton courts, and basketball court. I only had time to play badminton once during my stay, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The accommodation rooms are not particularly inviting, so most guys gravitate towards doing as much sport as possible, to avoid their rooms.

Apart from the sports facilities, there are two canteens catering for Arab and Chinese taste buds, and a clinic (also only for PetroChina staff). After 6 weeks I got severe Hypertension and was refused medical care. When I requested an armed escort to a hospital in nearby Amarah, I was refused that too. This is another story for another blog post. Obviously, I survived the ordeal to tell my tale here, but it was quite traumatic, especially in the light that there was a great clinic with some of the best medical equipment I've ever seen. There is a 2km tartan track around camp, but within the walls for safety, a bird aviary, and a couple lakes and then, of course, the accommodation blocks. 

The 2.3 km tartan track for walking, circumvents the base camp

Indoor Basketball court & Badminton courts

Indoor Gym and Table Tennis Table

PCH medical clinic

The indoor pool building, taken from the courtyard of the canteens

The bird aviary is adjacent to the tartan track with all types of exotic birds. 
We walked the track mostly in the dark, as it got dark quite early. 
On a couple of occasions, we left work early, just to see how it looks in daylight.

Walking around the tartan track on my only day off

Base camp food & dining

There are two canteens, one serving Arabic cuisine and a Chinese canteen that served the needs of the Asian population. One could choose of course where one wanted to eat. In the beginning, I joined my Arab colleagues at the Arab canteen, but when I got what they call the 'Halfaya bug' quite too often, spending too much time in the loo, I decided on a reverse course of action, less spicy food at the Chinese canteen. 

There are 3 meals a day served at both canteens, only during these times. Breakfast is between 6-7 am, lunch between 12-1 pm and dinner between 6-7pm. If you miss it you either sleep hungry or are forced to go buy something at the shop, a very costly alternative. If you might miss a meal, one could ask a colleague to dish extra for you in a polystyrene container. Both canteens had fridges with drinks and yogurts, which you could take from anything to your liking, even a couple extra to stock your bar fridge in your room with. Fruits, albeit sad at times, could also be taken for extra stock in your room for those times, you physically couldn't get up on time for breakfast. As time went by, I made sure to take extra food at the canteen at dinner to stock my room fridge with so that I have breakfast in bed. 

On a base camp, with such scheduled times, one tends to start routines of your own, and habits to best adapt. Stocking my fridge with extras from the canteen was my way of making sure I kept my blood sugar level. One worked long hours at times either in the office or at home, and sustenance was important fule to keep the brain fires going. We had kettles in our rooms, but no cups??, so we took paper cups, tea bags, sugar and milk from the canteen to "entertain" colleagues in our rooms. Robin, being an Englishman, had his tea religiously and it was great to have him over for a cuppa after dinner.

Arab canteen interior

The wash-up area near the Arab canteen

Inside the Arab canteen

Workers dragging their feet to go for breakfast at the Chinese canteen

Robin and I enjoying dinner at the Chinese canteen. 
Note the Barbican, yogurt and bottled water that accompanied all our meals

Base camp accommodation

Whereas all other buildings were built of either bricks or concrete, the almost- temporary 'trailer-caravan' housing blocks, made one wonder why. My office was furnished with leather furniture, whereas I had a plastic chair in my room. It is as if the subliminal message is: "Don't go to your room, stay at your workplace and work.....only when exhaustion grips you beyond the point where you care anymore, you may go and sleep in your room. I had a thin hard mattress, that probably did not provide good lumbar support or quality sleep. Then again, if you are tired, you will sleep on the floor, like we did in the army. I'm just not totally sure why an employer would give you the best of everything in the workplace and even the best sports facilities, but when it comes to personal comfort in your most private personal space, they lag a few paces behind. 

Even though the rooms were cleaned by housekeeping on a daily basis, I struggled to feel totally comfortable. Then again, it's a base camp on an oilfield, not a hotel that even warrants a review. However, I think there is lots of room for improvement.

I stayed in F06, F block room 6, with a nearby bomb shelter, should we have faced an attack. At the security briefing, when one arrives, all these security measures are explained. Health and safety are drilled in, and one is constantly aware of these constraints and risks. 

Accommodation Block F where I stayed

Undercover walkway with rooms to either side

Bomb shelter entrance near my room

My first bike parked outside my room

Garden walkways connecting the accommodation blocks

My room interior

My bed - The day I arrived

Executive accommodation

I call it the Chinese villas....a living area much nicer than our own, for executive employees or important guests to base camp. It stands in total contrast to our own. The pictures below speak for themselves. I cycled through the area a couple of late afternoons to take some pics.

Chinese villa area at sunset

Chinese villa area

Executive accommodation

Canteen building - taken from Chinese villa section

Cross bridge over the canal to the dining room

Water fountain feature

Base camp transportation

The pictures speak for themselves. There are many modes of transportation on a base camp from bicycles to land cruisers. The land cruisers were parked outside OCC gate in the mornings, a splendid white line of luxury cars ready to take engineers to the oilfield operations. Electric mini-buses ferried engineers or technicians on the base camp itself. Some had electric bikes, maintenance workers used petrol driven trikes to travel all around base camp to do maintenance and repairs. Most however just had ordinary peddle bikes to move around shorter distances; different modes of transportation for different needs.

Me, well I just had a mountain bike, but it gave me a lot of mobility and freedom to explore and to get in some much-needed exercise.

Electric minibusses parked in front of Halfaya 1 building

Laborer trike parked next to the lake

Landcruisers waiting at OCC gate to take engineers out into the field

Delivery 'truck' making its early morning rounds

A maintenance worker on his way to address an issue

Bike shed in the Canteen courtyard - Most used bikes to move around

Halfaya airport

I arrived here on my first day at Halfaya. We were taken to the base camp, given a meal at the canteen and then shown our rooms. When new trainers arrived I was also the one to welcome them at the airport, so I visited a couple of times. It functions like a regular airport except there is only one plane coming in and out, ferrying workers and visitors between Basrah and Halfaya, three times a week. 

Halfaya airport building

The PCH Gulfstream jet on the tarmac at the Halfaya airfield

Emergency services standing by

Base camp Health & Safety

I already mentioned the security briefing upon one's arrival as well as the compulsory health and safety training one undergoes to stay on an oilfield base camp. In my workplace, we did not have the same risks as those in the field operations, but one had to adhere to all the safety regulations. Every gate, or boom gate, one has to provide identification. The whole base is monitored with security cameras operated and monitored from a control room. It does, however, mean that one is safe.

No-one is allowed to leave the oilfield unless it is necessary for necessary meetings or other operational functions. It is then done with an armed escort, that means a B6 armored vehicle, armed guards, etc. Non-essential travel outside the camp is forbidden. I was not even allowed to go to the hospital when I had a medical emergency. Rules are tight and enforced. Kidnappings for ransom are quite prevalent in the area.

Gate to the airfield

OCC gate - The main gate into the compound

The PCH Health and Safety Training dummy

Base camp recreation

Robin and I took a couple of afternoons and left around 4pm to explore base camp whilst it was still light and we could enjoy the natural scenery. Just outside the North gate, there is this little jewel, a lake with reeds, that became the object of many of my sunset pictures. Winter sunset lake photos with white plane entrails left by planes in the cold winter sky are rare moments I had to try and break the monotony of work life and being in my room.

Robin and I made a point to at least walk for an hour a day on the tartan track around base camp, which also provided stunning views of nature. We used this time to discuss our frustrations and unwind after a stressful day.... which most days were. It rained heavily during autumn, and sometimes our walks were met with clouds of mosquitoes, so one had to try and speak with your mouth closed. 

Lake walkway

Winter lake sunset

Winter sunset splendor

The Halfaya lake bridge that crosses over to a little island

A boat on another lake within the confines of the compound

Late afternoon retreat at the lake

Base camp challenges

Heavy rains and flooding several times throughout my stay brought about a plague of flies during daytime and mosquitoes at night. They wriggled themselves through the smallest spaces and I constantly had 4 flies buzzing around my face, whilst trying to write reports in my office. I did not want to use insect repellent, as it is not healthy to breathe in toxic gases, so I had to resort to using a magazine to try and kill them, which proved a time wasting exercise. If there is one thing I should have packed, but never did, it was Tabard, a South African mosquito repellent that one puts on your skin, it works here, but in retrospect, I think Iraqi flies and mosquitoes might be a more resistant breed of insects.

One night whilst on Google hangouts with my wife, sitting at my desk in my room, Iraq registered an 8 on the Richter scale earthquake. Fortunately, the point of origin was far away, and apart from the shaking of my room, nothing threatened my life. Within the first week of being at Halfaya, there was a cloud break with heavy winds which forced water through the door into my room, followed by a power outage for a couple of hours. Halfaya Base camp is also home to hundreds of wild 'domestic' cats. After the cloud-break, I heard kittens somewhere outside yelping for help. I waddled knee deep through muddy water to try and locate and save them, but could not go beyond a certain point. The flooding, in general, did limit our mobility at times, but engineers quickly drained marshland areas and access roads of excessive water.

OCC lawn and access roads under water

Difficult to move around when everything is underwater

A flooded section near the tartan track

Central lawn underwater with HFY main building 1 in the background

The previous evening this was underwater, so we walked on these crates to the dining room

OCC building - central lawn underwater

After a severe thunderstorm, it was flooded outside my room
It coincided with a total black-out for 2 hours

Getting there and back

To get from Pretoria to Halfaya, I had to go to Joburg and then fly to Dubai, take a connection to Basrah, and then take a charter flight to Halfaya. The whole trip, waiting at airports, travel took about 36 hours. The most traumatic part of the trip when I arrived in Basrah and made we wait for a visa several hours after I already had a visa, and no clear communication as to why, nearly missing my flight to Halfaya. A valium injection in Dubai at their free airport clinic helped me a lot on my return to SA. But to God be the glory, who sent HIS Angels with me after shattered nerves upon my return trip to SA, just had a loooong ordeal, 49 days continuous working, dealing with difficult and challenging situations....... I was glad to be back home. 

The Airbus A380 I flew on to Dubai

At Dubai airport - The plane I flew on to Basrah

Basrah airport - Boarding our charter jet to Halfaya

A memorable experience came to end, one not easily forgotten, as it was unique and one in a lifetime. I don't think base camp life is for everyone, there are certainly many challenges. Yet all over the world, many men leave their families for periods of time to go and work and on similar oilfields. I admire their courage and bravery to earn an income amidst difficult circumstances. I have worked and lived in difficult countries before and had challenging circumstances before, but this one was particularly difficult.

I survived and will keep the positive experiences from this. To conclude, the Iraqi people are fantastic people, and my interaction with them was very positive.

- Soli Deo Gloria -