Thursday 15 December 2011

Not 'stuck' in Rustaq

English Teacher in Oman

Rustic Rustaq Highlights

October – December 2011


Background


Oman? Where is that? This was the question posed to me by my fiancĂ© (who later became my wife) in 2008, as I told her, whilst working in Sudan that I was moving to Oman, and that she should pay me a visit. The reality is that few people know about Oman, an uncovered jewel yet undiscovered by most, off-the-beaten-track of world travel, but with the potential that once you have been there and lived there to be totally mesmerized by its beauty and wonderful people.

My fiancé did come to visit in 2008, and barely 2 months later we flew back to South Africa to get married, as we struggled to legally get married in Oman. After a couple of weeks of arranging a wedding, having a wedding and a honeymoon we started off our married life in a sleepy desert town called Ibri. I completed my contract for that academic year, and even though was offered an extension, we decided it best to return to South Africa to have family support as a young married couple.

A couple of years later in 2011, after stints of unemployment here in South Africa, we got another opportunity to work in Oman when Hawthorne, the new contract holder for the colleges of Applied Sciences in Oman, offered us both teaching positions at the Rustaq college of Applied Sciences. Now Ibri felt like it was in the middle of nowhere, but Rustaq was even smaller in size and had fewer luxuries and amenities that make an expat's heart beat faster.

Ruins, Date plantations and mountains - The beauty of Rustaq

We arrived in late October 2011, about 4 weeks after the first batch teachers for that academic year. We spent our first night in Muscat in a very basic 3-star hotel, which did not inspire a lot of confidence in our new employer's generosity, and were driven the next day to Rustaq. All the single teachers at the Rustaq College, apart from those who have been there a while or married couples, stayed in an apartment block in downtown Rustaq.

The bottom floor of the complex was an unofficial brothel with a Thai boy/girl as the main attraction.... unbeknownst to most of his/her Omani clientele who frequented the 'massage spa' as it was officially labelled. 

We were given an apartment on the 4th floor, and as there were no lifts, the stairs were the only way to access it. We spent that first night scrubbing everything as it was filthy. We were exhausted, but the 'health; mattress we were provided was so firm, that my limbs kept on going numb. 

Our first work day was a lot better, the college had very nice offices with comfortable office furniture. My wife and I were fortunate enough to share an office with Sara, a lecturer from India who showed us much kindness and friendship over the next 10 months at the college. The office was so nice and our apartment so uncomfortable that we kept on staying later and later at the office dreading the time we had to go home. 

With high ceilings, white walls, cheap furniture, and no curtains to block out the sharp Gulf sun's brightness, it was not a place one wanted to relax. As an added insult, the badly designed plumbing system constantly allowed for a lingering stench, which no amount of detergent and Dettol could remove.

A bad bout of food poisoning also plagued us within the first month after we bought Turkey cold meat at Lulu's in Barka. We spent a whole weekend lying on single beds next to each other in the brightly lit apartment, a memorable nightmare. 

However, as time went by, we coloured in our apartment with furnishings and decorations more to our liking. We also built up a support structure of locals and colleagues with whom we increasingly spent more time to numb one from the boredom.

To read further about our experiences living in Al Musannah, click here!

Omani shopowner in Rustaq

About Oman


Oman, officially the Sultanate of Oman, is an Arab country on the south-eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula. Holding a strategically important position at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, the country shares land borders with the United Arab Emirates to the northwest, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Yemen to the southwest, and shares marine borders with Iran and Pakistan. 

From the late 17th century, the Omani Sultanate was a powerful empire, vying with Portugal and Britain for influence in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. At its peak in the 19th century, Omani influence or control extended across the Strait of Hormuz to modern-day Iran and Pakistan, and as far south as Zanzibar (today part of Tanzania, also former capital). As its power declined in the 20th century, the sultanate came under the influence of the United Kingdom. 

Historically, Muscat was the principal trading port of the Persian Gulf region. Muscat was also among the most important trading ports of the Indian Ocean. 

Oman is an absolute monarchy. The Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said has been the hereditary leader of the country since 1970. Sultan Qaboos is the longest-serving current ruler in the Middle East and sixth-longest current reigning monarch in the world.

Oman has modest oil reserves, ranking 25th globally. Nevertheless, in 2010 the UNDP ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development during the preceding 40 years. 

A significant portion of its economy is tourism and trade of fish, dates, and certain agricultural produce. This sets it apart from its neighbours’ solely oil-dependent economies. Oman is categorized as a high-income economy (Wikipedia).


A neighborhood in Old Rustaq with date plantation

About Rustaq


Al Rustaq is a city in the South Al Batinah region, surrounded by the central Al Hajir mountain range and an abundance of date palm groves and Aflaj. 

The city came to the forefront of Omani history when Imam Nasser bin Murshid Al Ya’rubi started from here his conquest to unify Oman and repel the Portuguese from the country in the 17th century. 

Al Rustaq was also once the capital of Oman, and it has many attractions that should make it a much bigger tourist attraction! (Oman Tripper).

Living in Rustaq


View of our neighborhood - taken from our first apartment balcony in Rustaq

View of the main road to Old Rustaq

View of our neighborhood - taken from our first apartment balcony in Rustaq

Our apartment complex in Rustaq where most teachers lived

Rural Rustaq scenery


One day I took my camera and climbed a nearby hill, where I was met with this scenery

After I conquered a hill near my apartment - The view of Rustaq from the top

Nature scenery along the main road

Nature scenery along the main road

Cool and tranquil date plantation scenery

Rural house gate

Rural farming community scenery

Bangladeshi laborer - Date palm plantation in rural Rustaq

Rustaq street scenes & shopping


Main Road into Rustaq from Al Musannah

The main roundabout near our apartment

Rustaq "Harrods" - Al Shrooq hypermarket catered for most of our basic grocery needs

Hardware shopfront

Fruit and veg shop at night - Downtown Rustaq

Shopfronts with apartments above

Rustaq center

A clinic - Downtown Rustaq

Downtown Rustaq

Shopfronts near our apartment

Rustaq night shopping

Downtown Rustaq

Al Kawther supermarket on the outskirts of Rustaq

Goats outside Al Kawther supermarket

Restaurants & cuisine


Turkish Star Restaurant near the College

Coffeeshop at night - Downtown Rustaq
 
Enjoying a meal

Shwarma dish

One of the many little coffee shops

Turkish Star restaurant

Ali and Son, our initial taxi driver before we rented a car

Omani vendors selling their goods in downtown Rustaq

Old Rustaq


Shopfront - Old Rustaq

Shopfronts - Old Rustaq

Rustaq fort

Rustaq fort

Teaching English at the Rustaq College of Applied Sciences


The main road into Rustaq - From the College entrance

Rustaq College of Applied Sciences

Teacher offices

Students

Classrooms

With some of my students


To view highlights of living and teaching in Rustaq, click here!

To view highlights of rural Rustaq nature scenery, click here!

To view Rustaq street and shopfront scenery, click here!

To view Rustaq restaurants and cuisine, click here!


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